{"id":1518,"date":"2018-10-26T15:28:50","date_gmt":"2018-10-26T14:28:50","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/wosonst.eu\/en\/?p=1518"},"modified":"2016-08-18T14:48:50","modified_gmt":"2016-08-18T13:48:50","slug":"the-cooking-baker","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/wosonst.eu\/en\/the-cooking-baker\/","title":{"rendered":"The cooking baker"},"content":{"rendered":"

The career of the young Palatinate star chef Benjamin Peifer started when he, still a boy then, considered optimizing his mother\u2019s pancake. He started off as a baker in the tranquil Palatinate lowland village named Weingarten.<\/strong><\/p>\n

After a selection of four delightful \u201camuse-bouches\u201d you are served a scoop of beurre noisette beaten with sea salt and a little basket in the gourmet restaurant \u201cUrgestein\u201d (meaning primary rocks) in Neustadt, thus encountering the young master chef\u2019s origins: bread. An entire course is dedicated to it, \u201cbecause bread is no matter of course\u201d. Benjamin Peifer has been refining the precious object for one and a half years. \u201cWe want to meet local tradition. So, put in a bit of caraway seed and so on\u2026\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cAnd so on\u201d is not quite what satisfies curious guests \u2013 they insist on getting the recipe. But they don\u2019t manage to glean more than the home-made sourdough starter and ancient grain types, such as emmer wheat, einkorn wheat and quinoa that are used in the dough. The result is sensational. You will eat this bread as if you were tasting it for the first time in your life.<\/p>\n

\"Benjamin-Peifer-1_Foto-Marcus-Scheuermann\"

Sharp: At only 26 years of age, Benjamin Peifer has already achieved his first star and has redefined Palatinate cuisine.<\/p><\/div>\n

The courtyard of the building \u201cSteinh\u00e4user Hof\u201d, located not far from the market square in Neustadt, takes the visitor into a scenery similar to that of Wagner\u2019s opera \u201cThe Master-Singers of Nuremberg\u201d \u2013 half-timbering, protruding oriels, and carved galleries. And one of the most renowned Palatinate gourmet restaurants, the \u201cUrgestein\u201d, stands in the background of this arrangement. The charisma of the locality unfolds through its architecture and interior, which is of simple elegance: leather armchairs under a cross vault ceiling made of clinker brick masonry.<\/p>\n

\u201dWe offer a variety of seventeen individual dishes,\u201d patron Hanno Rink tells us. He left the catering department of the casino \u201cSpielbank Bad Neuenahr\u201d behind him and moved to the Palatinate region together with his wife Hedi a good 15 years ago in order to take over the \u201cSteinh\u00e4user Hof\u201d. Today, the guests come from the region and well beyond, including from Berlin, Belgium, Holland and from Switzerland to savour the culinary delight here.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

The menu starts with \u201cGequellde mit wei\u00dfem Kees\u201d. In fact, this Palatinate dialectal name refers to a dish consisting of potato crisp, curd cheese and paprika. Sounds absolute haute cuisine, right? This is a homage to the Palatinate region, as is the next appetiser: Dominik Hans\u2019s \u201cElmsteiner Forelle\u201d (trout from the town of Elmstein). The third \u201camuse bouche\u201d is of the same origin again: \u201cP\u00e4lzer Gold\u201d (Palatinate gold) \u2013 confit potato and essence, onion cream and brown butter. And Elmstein again: a fish and chips version with charr, \u201can outrageous, local variation,\u201d says the master chef.<\/p>\n

Wonderfully well with this goes the fact that a skilful neighbour, Ms Ingrid Zinkgraf, designed all the crockery for the restaurant. And how about wines? \u201cWe are probably about the only star-awarded restaurant in the world that offers an exclusively Palatinate variety of wines,\u201c Hanno Rink tells us. The wine-cellar is stocked with wines from outstanding wine-growers such as \u201cM\u00fcller-Catoir\u201d or \u201cvon Buhl\u201d but also with lesser-known ones. It is amazing what is possible, if you interpret the notion of regionalism in a meaningful way. This may be the element that altogether made the Michelin Guides award the restaurant \u201cUrgestein\u201d a star.<\/p>\n

Benjamin Peifer \u2013 a wonderful Palatinate career as a chef<\/em><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Benjamin Peifer was trained at a country inn in the town of Hassloch and then began his liaison with the haute cuisine at the hotel and restaurant \u201cKetschauer Hof\u201d in the town of Deidesheim. He staked out his frontiers in the guesthouse \u201cG\u00e4steHaus Klaus Erfort\u201d in the city of Saarbr\u00fccken. \u201cI was trained there for three-star cooking, but it\u2019s not quite my speciality.\u201d He learnt about regional-oriented cooking from Jean-Philippe Aiguer at the \u201cHofgut Ruppertsberg\u201d farmstead. And at the \u201cPaulinerhof\u201d establishment, close to the city of Trier, he was awarded his first prizes: \u201cSieben Pfannen\u201d (seven pans) from the magazine \u201cGusto\u201d for the chef! At only twenty-three years of age.<\/p>\n

\"<\/a>

Hedi Rink, sous-chef at the \u201cUrgestein\u201d \u2013 only the best ingredients make it into her kitchen.<\/p><\/div>\n

\u201cSteinh\u00e4user Hof\u201d owner Hanno Rink\u2019s decision for the \u201cUrgestein\u201d was a decision for the unpredictable. \u201cAt the beginning, we didn\u2019t know where the journey would take us. Benjamin is an exception \u2013 none of those chefs who do their work in order to earn money only.\u201d<\/p>\n

Products are selected resolutely. For example, from the organic farmer Martin Braun in the town of Zeiskam. \u201cThis fellow is likewise an odd person,\u201d Peifer praises him in his very own manner. \u201cHe is the kind of guy that rings you at three in the morning, because of a new idea \u2013 about the application of salsify\u2026\u201d Meat has no leading role in the \u201cUrgestein\u201d. Star chef Peifer rather uses it to season the meal \u2013 what a shift in culinary paradigms. If roe venison from the Hambacher Schlossberg (Hambach Castle mountain) is served, then in portions of no more than 40 to 60 grams\u2026<\/p>\n

The semi-wild ducks and Mangalica pigs delivery comes from the town of Zweibr\u00fccken. Peifer calls a course that is made of air-dried pork belly, cooked with a paprika glazing \u201cErinnerungen an Denia\u201d (memories of Denia). And here we enter fantasyland: the vegetarian four course menu named \u201cGrundstein\u201d (foundation stone), the five course menu \u201cUrvertrauen\u201d (basic trust), and the six course menu \u201cMeilenstein\u201d (milestone). You will always remember this experience and, as a part of it, the ray wings in Vadouvan butter, glazed with lentils and pointed cabbage, and also the cake \u201cBienenstich Intense 2.0.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Urgestein_Food_05-2014_by_augenstoff_Marcus_Scheuermann20\"<\/a>

\u201cUrlamm\u201d (primeval lamb) street food \u00e0 la Benjamin Peifer: deboned lamb chop \u201cBBQ\u201d with Serundeng, peanut cream and lime peel, in the middle \u201cLaab Gae\u201d, minced lamb with fish sauce, chilli, vegetables and fresh herbs and on the right: scrag end, cooked for 12 hours at 65 degrees Celsius, with Kimchi, Edamame and lamb bouillon.<\/p><\/div>\n

Today, you need to book well in advance if you want to get hold of a seat in the \u201cUrgestein\u201d. The single and double rooms are equipped with carefully chosen furnishing and they provide the base for a gourmet weekend in Neustadt, so you can comfortably lie down after feasting deliciously and promenading through the old town.<\/p>\n

Inside the wine bar: \u201cA couple of snacks to go with the wine \u2013 wicked and tasty!\u201d<\/em><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Besides, connoisseurs enjoy Rink\u2019s \u201cJazz Club\u201d. It shows virtuosos and rhythms from around the world. And there is another novelty: the \u201cUrgestein Bar\u201d, located in the oldest little house of the town, facing the alleyway. And here again, simplicity is king. \u201cOur meals are meant to be no more than an accompaniment to the wine,\u201d Benjamin Peifer explains modestly, \u201ca couple of snacks, wicked and tasty.\u201d Which means? \u201cHome-made pancetta, for example, freshly sliced with the flywheel machine.\u201d And what else? \u201cTrout from the Palatinate Forest, but marinated like unagi and glazed.\u201d The credo is: small meals, not satiating but happy-making. So much so that somebody might be tempted to sneak into the bar and pinch from the baker-cook\u2019s bread. An act that should be forgiven tastefully.<\/p>\n

\n

restaurant-urgestein.de<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The career of the young Palatinate star chef Benjamin Peifer started when he, still a boy then, considered optimizing his mother\u2019s pancake. He started off as a baker in the tranquil Palatinate lowland village named Weingarten. 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